By Kyle J. Norton
Health article writer and researcher;
Over 10.000 articles and research papers have been written and published
on line, including world wide health, ezine articles, article base,
healthblogs, selfgrowth, best before it's news, the karate GB daily,
etc,.
Named TOP 50 MEDICAL ESSAYS FOR ARTISTS & AUTHORS TO READ by Disilgold.com
Named 50 of the best health Tweeters Canada - Huffington Post
Nominated for shorty award over last 4 years
Some
articles have been used as references in medical research, such as
international journal Pharma and Bio science, ISSN 0975-6299.
Skin aging is one of the most
visible aging processes that occur
constantly in our skin. According to the Clinical Centre of Nis, certain
plant
extracts may have the ability to scavenge free radicals to protect the
skin
matrix through the inhibition of enzymatic degradation, or to promote
collagen
synthesis in the skin, and affect skin elasticity and tightness (a).
Another
study suggested that free radicals induced domino effects
in production of reactive oxygen species and can react with DNA,
proteins, and fatty acids causing oxidative damage and impairment of the
antioxidant system, leading to injuries, damage of the regulation
pathways
of skin causing wrinkles, roughness, appearance of fine lines, lack of
elasticity, and de-pigmentation or hyperpigmentation marks (b).
Walking through the drug and commercial
cosmetic stores, one can see hundreds of anti-aging creams and products displayed.
Many of them have also gone through certain studies for its efficacy with
advertisement through media and celebrities. In fact, according to statistics,
Global Anti-Aging Products Market will be worth $291.9 Billion by 2015.
Searching
through the key word of Dehydroascorbic Acid (Oxidized Vitamin C, DHAA) and
skin has yielded no related studies or clinical trials. It may be the result of the solution having no
commercial value as it can be made by any cosmetic purchaser, or the studies
indicate that L-ascorbic acid must be formulated at pH levels less than 3.5 to
enter the skin with maximal concentration of 20% for optimal percutaneous
absorption. But according to Dr. Douglas Q. Kitt, Dehydroascorbic Acid (DHAA)
permeates stratum corneum at a rate up to 12 times faster than AA. This
supports the concept that lower concentrations of DHAA in topical preparations
can enhance skin vitamin C levels with less potential side effects (c).
A. Dehydroascorbic Acid (DHA) (vitamin C supplement
oxidized form)
The Chemical Reaction and Structure
Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble
vitamin found in fresh fruits, berries and green vegetables. It is best known
for its free radical scavenging activity and regenerating oxidized vitamin
E for immune system support. In skin aging, the vitamin may improve solar
radiation protection and epidermal aging (1) through production of collagen
due to its antioxidant activity (2)(3).
Epidemiological studies linking
vitamin C in
prevention of skin damage and aging have produced some certain results
(3a)(3b)(3c),
but the large sample size and multi-centred studies are necessary to
validate
its effectiveness. Vitamin C oxidized form or dehydroascorbic acid (DHA)
processed antiviral and virucidal effects (23) showed to prevent
H2O2-induced cell death by increasing the GSH levels mediated by the GPx
and GR activities and PPP (17), and regulated neuronal energy
metabolism, through facilitating
the utilization of glucose via the PPP for antioxidant purposes (18) by
increasing antioxidant potential in
the central nervous system (19). Dehydroascorbic acid (DHA) may be a
potential anti-cancer agent to treat aggressive cancers
(20)(21). Dr. Toohey at the Cytoregulation Research said
"rapidly-dividing
tumour cells make unusually large amounts of homocysteine thiolactone
and that
administered dehydroascorbic acid enters the cells and converts the
thiolactone
to mercaptopropionaldehyde which kills the cancer cells" (22).
B. Vitamin C
1. Plasma levels of vitamin C
L-ascorbic acid is known for its effects on
skin-whitening and against the anti-oxidation causes of skin aging. During the
aging process, levels of vitamin C was found to slowly deplete according to the
Tokyo Metropolitan Institute of Gerontology in the measurement of plasma and
urine of C57BL/6 male mice during 3 to 30 months of aging(4). Therefore,
restoration of physiological levels of vitamin C inside the cells might
improve the lysosomal degradation (protection of cell from the degradative
enzymes through protection of the cytosol) in the outflow pathway cells
and prevent the pathogenesis of glaucomadegrade proteins(5).
Unfortunately, some researchers suggested
that higher levels of circulating vitamin C may not provide protection against
incident radiographic knee OA, and be associated with an increased risk of knee
OA(6) and the 1Panorama Research Institute and Regenerative Sciences
Institute, insisted "careful attention to individual and family medical
history and personal genomic data may prove essential to make wise dietary and
supplement choices to be combined with exercise”(7).
2. The effects
According to the Minghsin
University of
Science and Technology, in doses of a dependent manner,
the concentration
of L-ascorbic acid induced absorption of the collagen solution in
exhibition of smoothing wrinkles and clear up spots(8). Ascorbic acid
(AA)
is essential in stimulating collagen gene expression. In type 1 and type
4
collagen and SVCT2, the vitamin was found to enhance the expression of
type 1
and type 4 collagens and SVCT2 mRNA in cultured human skin fibroblasts
at 100
μM AA placed every 24h for 5 days to prevent depletion(9). The Chiang
Mai University study also supported the effects of ascorbic acid in
the anti-aging process through exhibition pro and active MMP-2
inhibitory(10). Other studies suggested the combined vitamins, including
vitamin C in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation
rate and more stable formulations as compared to different preparations
containing only one of the vitamins(11)(12). Amazingly, in vivo,
application of
vitamin C showed a significant reduction of oxidative stress in the
skin, an
improvement of the epidermal-dermal microstructure and a reduction of
fine
lines and wrinkles in aged skin within a relatively short period of time
of
product application(13). The Bruce and Associates study also insisted
the
effectiveness of vitamin C application over a 12 week period as the
vitamin
enhanced the overall intensity of pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles,
tactile roughness, and laxity with a 100% satisfaction of overall
appearance
of the tested subjects’ skin(14).
1. Skin roughness and Scaliness
Skin roughness due to aging is
a result of dead skin cells shedding more slowly, and building up in the
upper layer of skin causing skin complexion to become rough and dull.
According to the University of California at San
Francisco, they
are the result of aging and anatomic site of which demonstrated a significant
influence on skin roughness and scaliness(25). Another study suggested that
frictional properties of skin are dependent on more than water content or
non-apparent sweating and the role of sebum secretion may be one
possible factor(26), or it may be result of depletion of surface lipid content(27).
2. Wrinkles
Wrinkles are also associated with aging,
hormonal status, smoking, and intercurrent disease according to the study by
the University of California-San Francisco(28). Some researchers suggested that
vitamin C may play an important role in collagen production due to its
antioxidant properties(28). Another study indicated a positive anti-wrinkle
effect through consumption of a mixture of soy isoflavones, lycopene, vitamin
C, vitamin E, and fish oil(29).
3. Skin elasticity and firming
Skin sagging is a result of a loss of
collagen and elastin of the skin due to aging in combination with the
dreaded pull of gravity. The study of a novel dietary supplement (Imedeen
Prime Renewal) including soy extract, fish protein polysaccharides, extracts
from white tea, grape seed and tomato, vitamins C and E as well as zinc and
chamomile extract, showed to inhibit forehead, periocular and perioral
wrinkles, mottled pigmentation, laxity, sagging, under eye dark circles, and
overall appearance. After 6 months treatment, it was suggested that the formula
may provide improved condition, structure and firmness of the skin in post-menopausal
women(30). Other studies insisted that since vitamin C (Vit. C) in the form of
L-ascorbic acid (Asc) can accelerate wound healing(33)(32) and protect fatty
tissues from oxidation damage(33), it may play an integral role in
collagen synthesis of reducing wrinkles and skin sagging(34)(35)
4. Liver and aging spots
Liver spot is a condition of brown or black
spots appearing on the surface of the skin due to aging and
exposure to ultraviolet radiation from the sun. According to skin care guides,
high concentration of Vitamin C may improve the skin and lighten the spots(36).
Other articles insisted that liver spots may be the result of a deficiency
of vitamin C(37). According to the Duke University Medical Center, the application
of topical solutions containing vitamins C and E provided protection for human
skin against damage caused by ultraviolet radiation(38)(39)(40)(41).
5. Pigmentation
Skin pigmentation disorder is a result of
damage most likely caused by UV sunlight, or unhealthy cells due to
aging affecting the production of melanin. Vitamin C topical and by
iontophoresis are found effectively in aiding post-laser hyperpigmentation
or short and long term treatment (42) for melism (43). In an experiment where 29
females with melisma enrolled for iontophoresis, a vitamin C solution was
applied to one side of the face, while distilled water was applied to the other
side as a control, treatment with colorimeter site showed a significant
decrease in the luminance value, (a photometric measure of the luminous
intensity per unit area of light) compared to that of the control site (44).
6. Acne and Acne scars
According to Dr. GEORGE E. MORRIS, M.D., in a
study of 60 patients with acne being given 8 oz of citrus juice twice
daily and vitamin C in 3 gm a day, after 4 months 43 showed
improvement, 10 failed to show improvement and 7 did not return for
follow up(45). Some articles showed that vitamin C may be effective in the reduction
of the formation of acne scars through it’s anti-inflammatory and free radical
scavenger activities(46), but no study has been found through searching on
PubMed.
7. Back and White heads
Black and white heads are the result of a
skin pore becoming clogged with sebum from the body's natural oil and
becoming black heads if oxidized. No study has been found specifically for the
key word vitamin C and back and white heads on PubMed.
8. Fine Lines
No study and been found.
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References
(*) http://authors.library.caltech.edu/11677/1/BORjbc37a.pdf
(The oxidation of ascorbic acid and its reduction in vitro and vivo)
(a) Skin ageing: natural weapons and
strategies by Binic I1, Lazarevic V, Ljubenovic M, Mojsa J,
Sokolovic D.(PubMed)
(b) Phytoconstituents as photoprotective
novel cosmetic formulations by Saraf S1, Kaur CD.(PubMed)
(c) Topical Dehydroascorbic Acid (Oxidized
Vitamin C) Permeates Stratum Corneum More Rapidly Than Ascorbic Acid by Douglas
Q Kitt
(1) Active ingredients against human
epidermal aging by Lorencini M1, Brohem CA2, Dieamant GC2,
Zanchin NI3, Maibach HI(PubMed)
(2) CAM use in
dermatology. Is there a potential role for honey, green tea, and vitamin C? by
Barbosa NS1, Kalaaji AN2.(PubMed)
(3) The science behind vitamins by Linder J.(PubMed)
(3a) Split-face study of topical 23.8%
L-ascorbic acid serum in treating photo-aged skin by Xu TH1, Chen
JZ, Li YH, Wu Y, Luo YJ, Gao XH, Chen HD(PubMed)
(3b) Use of topical ascorbic acid and its
effects on photodamaged skin topography by Traikovich SS.(PubMed)
(3c) Formulation and in-vivo evaluation of a
cosmetic multiple emulsion containing vitamin C and wheat protein by Akhtar N1,
Yazan Y(PubMed)
(4) Ascorbic acid levels in various tissues,
plasma and urine of mice during aging by Iwama M1, Amano A,
Shimokado K, Maruyama N, Ishigami A.(PubMed)
(5) Ascorbic Acid Modulation of Iron
Homeostasis and Lysosomal Function in Trabecular Meshwork Cells by Xu P1,
Lin Y, Porter K, Liton PB(PubMed)
(6) High plasma levels of vitamin C and E are
associated with incident radiographic knee osteoarthritis by Chaganti RK1,
Tolstykh I2, Javaid MK3, Neogi T4, Torner J5,
Curtis J6, Jacques P7, Felson D4, Lane NE8,
Nevitt MC9; Multicenter Osteoarthritis Study Group (MOST)(PubMed)
(7) Trade-offs between anti-aging dietary
supplementation and exercise by Mendelsohn AR1, Larrick JW(PubMed)
(8) [The study of absorption efficiency and
restoring effects of collagen and ascorbic acid on aged skin by fluorescence
and reflection spectroscopy].[Article in Chinese] by Yang BW1, Lin
YM, Wang SY, Yeh DC.(PubMed)
(9) Ascorbic acid enhances the expression of
type 1 and type 4 collagen and SVCT2 in cultured human skin fibroblasts by
Kishimoto Y1, Saito N, Kurita K, Shimokado K, Maruyama N, Ishigami
A.(PubMed)
(10) Nanoscale gelatinase A (MMP-2)
inhibition on human skin fibroblasts of Longkong (Lansium domesticum Correa)
leaf extracts for anti-aging by Manosroi A1, Kumguan K, Chankhampan
C, Manosroi W, Manosroi J.(PubMed)
(11) Benefits of combinations of vitamin A, C
and E derivatives in the stability of cosmetic formulations by Gianeti MD1,
Gaspar LR, Camargo FB Jr, Campos PM.(PubMed)
(12) Stability of vitamin C derivatives in
topical formulations containing lipoic acid, vitamins A and E. by Segall AI1,
Moyano MA.(PubMed)
(13) Topical activity of ascorbic acid: from
in vitro optimization to in vivo efficacy by Raschke T1, Koop U,
Düsing HJ, Filbry A, Sauermann K, Jaspers S, Wenck H, Wittern KP.(PubMed)
(14) Evaluation of a prescription strength 4%
hydroquinone/10% L-ascorbic acid treatment system for normal to oily skin by
Bruce S1, Watson J(PubMed)
(15) Fatal vitamin C-associated acute renal
failure by McHugh GJ, Graber ML, Freebairn RC.(PubMed)
(16) Ascorbic acid overdosing: a risk factor
for calcium oxalate nephrolithiasis by Urivetzky M, Kessaris D, Smith AD.(PubMed)
(17) Dehydroascorbic acid prevents oxidative
cell death through a glutathione pathway in primary astrocytes by Kim EJ1,
Park YG, Baik EJ, Jung SJ, Won R, Nahm TS, Lee BH.(PubMed)
(18) The oxidized form of vitamin C,
dehydroascorbic acid, regulates neuronal energy metabolism by Cisternas P1,
Silva-Alvarez C, Martínez F, Fernandez E, Ferrada L, Oyarce K, Salazar K,
Bolaños JP, Nualart F.(PubMed)
(19) Vitamin C crosses the blood-brain barrier
in the oxidized form through the glucose transporters by Agus DB1,
Gambhir SS, Pardridge WM, Spielholz C, Baselga J, Vera JC, Golde DW.(PubMed)
(20) Expression and/or activity of the SVCT2
ascorbate transporter may be decreased in many aggressive cancers, suggesting
potential utility for sodium bicarbonate and dehydroascorbic acid in cancer
therapy by McCarty MF.(PubMed)
(21) Gelatin crosslinked with dehydroascorbic
acid as a novel scaffold for tissue regeneration with simultaneous antitumor
activity by Falconi M1, Salvatore V, Teti G, Focaroli S, Durante S,
Nicolini B, Mazzotti A, Orienti I.(PubMed)
(22) Dehydroascorbic acid as an anti-cancer
agent by Toohey JI.(PubMed)
(23) Antiviral and virucidal activities of
natural products by Arakawa T1, Yamasaki H, Ikeda K, Ejima D, Naito
T, Koyama AH.(PubMed)
(24) Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous
absorption studies, by Pinnell SR1, Yang H, Omar M, Monteiro-Riviere
N, DeBuys HV, Walker LC, Wang Y, Levine M.(PubMed)
(25) Use of topical ascorbic acid and its
effects on photodamaged skin topography by Traikovich SS.(PubMed)
(26) Frictional properties of human skin:
relation to age, sex and anatomical region, stratum corneum hydration and
transepidermal water loss by Cua AB1, Wilhelm KP, Maibach HI.(PubMed)
(27) Skin surface lipid and skin friction:
relation to age, sex and anatomical region by Cua AB1, Wilhelm KP,
Maibach HI.(PubMed)
(28) Skin aging. Effect on transepidermal
water loss, stratum corneum hydration, skin surface pH, and casual sebum
content by Wilhelm KP1, Cua
AB, Maibach HI.(PubMed)
(29) Wrinkle reduction in post-menopausal
women consuming a novel oral supplement: a double-blind placebo-controlled
randomized study by Jenkins G1, Wainwright LJ, Holland R, Barrett
KE, Casey J.(PubMed)
(30) Effect of a novel dietary supplement on
skin aging in post-menopausal women by Skovgaard GR1, Jensen
AS, Sigler ML.(PubMed)
(31) Vitamin C: a wound healing perspective,
by Moores J.(PubMed)
(32) Nutrition 411: revisiting vitamin C and
wound healing by Collins N.(PubMed)
(33) Ef[The study of absorption efficiency
and restoring effects of collagen and ascorbic acid on aged skin by
fluorescence and reflection spectroscopy].[Article in Chinese] by Yang BW1,
Lin YM, Wang SY, Yeh DC.(PubMed)
(34) Regulation of collagen synthesis in
human dermal fibroblasts in contracted collagen gels by ascorbic acid, growth
factors, and inhibitors of lipid peroxidation by Gessin JC1, Brown
LJ, Gordon JS, Berg RA(PubMed)
(35) Electroporation-mediated topical
delivery of vitamin C for cosmetic applications by Zhang L1, Lerner
S, Rustrum WV, Hofmann GA.(PubMed)
(36) Liver Spot Removal: Vitamin C Products(Skin
care guide)
(37) Lack of vitamin leads to brown spot on
hand(livestrong)
(38) A topical antioxidant solution
containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for
human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation by Murray JC1,
Burch JA, Streilein
RD,
Iannacchione MA, Hall RP, Pinnell SR.(PubMed)
(39) UV photoprotection by combination
topical antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E by Lin JY1, Selim MA,
Shea CR, Grichnik JM, Omar MM, Monteiro-Riviere NA, Pinnell SR.(PubMed)
(40) Protective effects of topical
antioxidants in humans by Dreher F1, Maibach H.(PubMed)
(41) Effectiveness of antioxidants (vitamin C
and E) with and without sunscreens as topical photoprotectants by Darr D1,
Dunston S, Faust H, Pinnell S.(PubMed)
(42) Successful short-term and long-term
treatment of melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation using vitamin C
with a full-face iontophoresis mask and a mandelic/malic acid skin care regimen
by Taylor MB1, Yanaki JS, Draper DO, Shurtz JC, Coglianese M.(PubMed)
(43) Intravenous vitamin C in the treatment
of post-laser hyperpigmentation for melasma: a short report by Lee GS.(PubMed)
(44) A randomized, double-blind,
placebo-controlled trial of vitamin C iontophoresis in melisma by Huh CH1,
Seo KI, Park JY, Lim JG, Eun HC, Park KC.(PubMed)
(45) USE OF VITAMIN C IN ACNE
VULGARIS by GEORGE E. MORRIS, M.D.(Jama
dermatology)
(46) Vitamin C and Acne Scar By Melodie
Anne Coffman(Livestrong
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